Caddis Pupa Patterns

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Cream Caddis Pupa
  • Hook: #16-18 1x Short Scud
  • Thread: 50 Denier White GSP
  • Body: Cream Yarn
  • Legs: Partridge
  • Thorax: Brown Ostrich Herl
  • Head: Black Bead

Nothing to brag about here, just taking my materials and using them to create a traditional pupa pattern. I twisted a peice of craft yarn very tightly before palmering it forward. The legs are partridge and are applied by notching a V in the end of the feather and placing each side of the V on either side of the hook and tying it in. To finish the fly tie in a stretch of brown/grey/black ostrich herl and wrap it forward making sure to brush the fibers back as you wrap forward, tie off and whip finish. Below(left) is an example of the same fly without twisting the yarn before palmering it forward. The other image is of the finished product the way a trout would see it, wet. Sometimes we forget to think about it as the trout see it. Wet. Get your flies wet. Look at them in a large glass of water, tie a stretch of tippet to it, what moves? What doesnt? How does the water change the color? Are air bubbles trapped? Things to think about.

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Bodyglass Caddis Pupa
  • Hook: #16-18 1x Short Scud
  • Thread: Varies for the Body Color
  • Underbody: Thread/Sulky Thread
  • Overbody: Clear Stretch Cord
  • Legs: Partridge
  • Thorax: Natural Dubbing
  • Head: Black Glass Bead

The pattern I tied this from can be viewed here. Thanks to Switter’s B I am exposed to a large variety of tiers that keep the creative juices flowing. Lucian Vasies tied the fly that I took inspiration from before sitting down at the vise to tie these flies. I did change a few things, I didn’t use ostrich herl for the the thorax and I tried different materials for an underbody with these flies. The fly pictured above uses Tan tying thread to form the underbody and clear stretch cord to form the overbody. You can use stretch tubing but you won’t get the exact same result because stretch tubing contains a hollow center useful for some applications but if used here would lay flatter rather than the nice round looking humps. I also experiemented with Sulky thread for an underbody, on some of the patterns I left the Partridge legs out and went with more of a “shroud” of loose synthetic dubbing that I picked out with an old dental pick I’ve filed down to a sharp point (a favorite tool of mine).

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2 Comments:

  1. I’ve used the dental pick before but for picking out larger amounts of dubbing I use a copper wire brush designed for cleaning rifle barrels. They are cheap and come in different sizes

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